Painting in Black White, Tadapatri Temples

Generally we would like to see an oil painting in its fullest glory, with colours of rainbow well distributed on the canvas board. Metaphorically speaking the temples of Tadipatri reminds one of the rarest of rare black & white canvas with only a pencil and a sheet of white paper bring out the elements.




What the artisans from the Vijaynagar empire have attempted at Tadipatri is to been seen to be believed. Literally I had to reverse my vehicle and have an argument with my wife, who was reluctant that I should see these temples at any cost. It was worth the disagreement and at the end of the day she was happy that my instincts worked this time around for a change. We were delayed on reaching our sweet home by 1 hour but it was worth it.

LOCATION : Tadpatri is just 50 odd kms from Ananthpur on NH7 with a deviation from the town. But we approached this destination after visiting Gooty, Alampur, Ketavaram, Srisailam, Mahanandi, Yaganti, Belum and Tadpatri was a bonus on the return journey. Just imagine our luck we completed the trip despite the Petroleum Strike called by IOC Officers. This can reveal the dates of our travel for inquisitive readers.


HISTORY : Many a historians consider the two temples of Tadipatri as symbol of an era where artisans have perfected their skills in sculpting. Tiruvenkataswami temple is now known as Chintalaraya temple probably after Krishnadevaraya. This is the primary reason for scenes to be depicted from Mahabharat on the façade of the temple gopurams and citadel. However the balance of the gopuram was dislodged when a powerful lightening struck in 1851 AD due to the absence of earthing or grounding in the structure. The credit for building this temple goes to one Ramalinga Nayudu, a local feudatory of the Vijaynagar Empire.

Chintalraya temple has been resurrected by ASI considering the importance retaining the legacy of such fine piece of sculpting from Vijaynagar era. The Asthana Mantap is fine ornamented as it were with fine sculptures. It stands tall with 40 moulded pillars. The granite are in hues of grayish black. Some of the scenes depicted are King Dasartha performing Ashwamedha yagna, Hanuman talking to Ravana, Sita entering flames, Lord Krishna dancing on the legendary serpent are all depicting of the epics.

The Padmavathi Mantap was generally used as marriage hall for solemnizing marriages in ancient times. This temple can be compared to Virupaksha temple in Hampi but unfortunately the gopuram has collapsed due to elements of nature.


Bugga Ramalinga temple was never completed by the Thimmappa Nayudu due to invasion. Nevertheless Nature too conspired against this edifice by flooding in 1851 AD. The flood waters immersed the temple with waters from river Pennar and the southern tower collapsed under the weak foundation laid.

Bugga means a water spring in Telugu, due to which the temple name was christened as Bugga Ramalingeswara temple. The Linga on the temple premise is perennially fed by the spring.

The temple is built in typical Dravidian style with central columns supporting the roof and the pillars around providing the balance for the entire edifice. The Lion motif on some pillars add to the majestic appeal to the temple. The inscriptions speak of grants made by Achyutraya, Govindayya and Thimmaraya for maintainence and day to day expense of the temple.

Overall the visit to Tadipatri, which was originally a palm growing region due to which the name stuck is literally experiencing the finesse of Vijaynagar architecture. Check out the metaphor painting in black and white at Tadipatri temples.

Gajendragarh Fort got to be Shivaji Maharaj's Legacy

Well nothing like having a date with history and that too with Shivaji Maharaj’s fort after visiting all the royal monuments at Aihole,Badami and Pattadakal. One has to take the Gudlur route from Aihole, which is approx 30 kms and further onwards it is 22 kms one comes into Gajendragarh one of the massive forts. There two more fortifications enroute to this fort along with a Kalkakaleswar temple. The route is filled with caves and hillock, definitely indicating Neolithic mans civilization. Enroute one can witness a statue of unfinished Nandi partially painted with white paint.

The Kalkaleswar temple we avoided it seems to be another historic spot, sheerly because of paucity of time. Kalkaleswar temple is one of oldest Shiva temple, and it is known as Dhakshin Kashi too. One has to trek upto the temple, there is an Udbhav Ling, Veerabhadra temple, in the same premises. There is tank outside the temple which is also known as anthargange, the source of the water must be from the hillock above. There are some amazing myths associated with this temple, regarding the painting of the temple and bell vanishing act. It has to be swallowed with a pinch of salt, unless there are some tribes above the hillock still active.

Windmills : A series of windmills have been set up on the Gajendragarh fort premises, I am sure they have destroyed some portion of the historical monument. Of course this may be with the permission of the jagirdar Ghorpade, who is staying along with his family below the hillock. He may have leased the land to the Windmill owners for generating electricity. A ruined palace of the royalty, which is associated with Shivaji’s feudal lords is situated wherein besides the Jagirdar is currently residing. I hope he can get the palace renovated, it can become a beautiful heritage hotel and earn him life long income.

Gajendragadh were originally home to wolves and hyenas which have been driven out because of hectic high decible human activity. One can find Lambanis decked with fine jewellery If one can get a photo shoot op. please do not hesitate to click a picture. The Lambani costume is a real classic attire.

The fort walls are huge bordering along the Gajendra garh hillock, a water channel is being constructed around the fort hillock, hopefully one should find water next time around and a small bridge may be necessary to cross over. The climb to the fortress is around 140 odd steps. It is just enough for adventurer to scale. On top of the hillock one is welcomed by archway which is the enterance of the Fort. One can find a beautifully etched figure of Shivaji maharaj riding a horse. It might initially looked like a Chinese traveler, on close scrutiny one is bound to connect to Shivaji. Inside the fort one can find 4 watch towers and a huge tank which was meant for storing rain water. It has a couched Nandi and Lion on the wall as if guarding the precious water. The crystal clear water was partially filled due to good rainfall. There is also a small temple on the other side of the Fort. It is surprising that a garrison or buildings is totally absent in the fort. Maybe the limestone construction have collapsed. We met the watchmen who told us there is a nice route by through which one can drive right upto the hillock instead of climbing and another distant watch tower point is lovely spot. He also informed us that there is a dam little away from the fort. Overall it is quite an amazing experience to climb the Fort and have a birds eye view of the Gajendragarh town, which is quite a trading centre. The current palace of the king down on the hillock has some of the items of including a huge dummy tiger which is stuffed, along with some paintings. One has to approach the family diplomatically and one can get a peep into the history of Shivaji Maharaj reign.

A canal is under construction which may pass as a moat to the fort, this might enhance the architecture of the crumbling fort. The approach pathway needs to be cleaned up for a trek. I hope in future the Windmills are restricted and some landscaping is undertaken on fort premises. Overall a visit to Gajendragarh fort gives us the vibes of Shivaji's legacy. Next time around I would not like to miss Kalleswar temple, which too is steeped in mystery and history.

Yaganti Kshetra

Prologue : A group of Cavemen from the Neolithic times were hunting for wild boars and deer for a routine festivity during the full moon nights. They unfortunately lost their way and ran out of food stuffs in the form of banana and papaya. The entire group was tired and thirsty. They were in search of lake to quell their thirst. Suddenly a smart boy Yaga, who was getting inducted into the hunting routine spotted a spring. Everybody enjoyed the sweet water to their hearts content. They looked around the terrain and found it to be an idyllic spot to reside with 4 caves. All the elders patted Yaga on his back. Hurray it was discovery of the abode YAGANTI. It called for a grand celeberation on their return. An announcement was made by the chief that some of the families can shift to this newly discovered YAGANTI, which is blessed with plenty of fresh spring water. In those times land was absolutely free, no need of statutory registration or approval.



History : From the Neolithic mankind the baton was handed over to the Nandas who ruled over this territory, and later the Mauryas took over the reign after defeating the Nandas. Chandragupta Maurya ascended the throne in 323 B.C and spread his wings right upto Shravanbelagola. Later the Guptas and Satvahana dynasties ruled this region. South Indian dynasties of Pallavas and Cholas too reigned for some time, before Hoysalas and Vijaynagar kings took over. The contribution of Raja Raja Chola was limited to the main temple, one of the Gopuram was constructed by the Hoysala Kings, the credit to complete renovation of the temple should go to Bukkaraya in 1345 AD. The addition in the form of Pushkarni was installed by Krishnadevaraya around 1515 AD. After the fall of Vijaynagar empire, the Palegars took over the territory. Than the Bahmani Sultans took over and a Nawab was installed as the governor of the territory. Ultimately the territory passed on to the Nizams of Hyderabad under the British East India company.


Location : Yaganti can be reached through Gooty from Hyderabad towards Banagapalli. It can be approached through Kurnool also. The other route is via Srisailam, Mahanandi, Nandyal and Banagapalli. The third route from Bangalore is to travel via Anantpur, Tadpatri, Belum Caves, Banagapalli and Yaganti. The approach road is from Gooty to Yaganti. The approx distance from Bangalore is 270 kms and Hyderabad it is 340 Kms on NH 7. Yaganti is located exactly 17 kms from Banagapalli if one approaches from Ananthpur or Srisailam route.


Yaganti Kshetra falls under the jurisdiction of Kurnool district. Yagantiswamy is popular for its Shiva temple. A lingam adornes the main shrine. Some claim it was built according to the Vaishnav tradition. Umamaheswar, Parvathi and Nandi are the main deities in the temple. There is a pushkarni for devotees to take bath. It is better to avoid using soap while taking bath. The water is crystal clear and pure because of its flowing nature. Nobody is aware how the pond is blessed with plenty of water even during the summer. Generally the devotees have their bath before proceeding for dharshan.

Shivaratri is celeberated with grandeur and fervour. Devotees from all over AP visit the temple during Shivaratri festivity, which generally held in Feb or March every year. According to a myth sage agastya visited this kshetra and took bath and paid his respect to Lord Shiva. The Nandi seems to be growing in size every year by few mm. It is predicted when the Kaliyug ends Nandi will signify the end of evil domination in this world.

There are 3 cave temples across the spring located on the hillock. The Augustya Muni Cave is quite a steep 120 steps climb. One can find a Devi statue installed which is regularly worshipped. It is real adventure ascent on to the cave temple. The panaromic view of the entire Yaganti temple complex is stupendous from the vantage point on the cave. The steps are safe, one has to be little cautious during the rainy season. Aged people need support particularly when is nearing the peak. There is a resting point in the middle of the cave.

The second cave temple has a lingam and priest is busy helping the devotees with blessing and sermon if required. This cave temple is less steep than the first one. One has to be cautious with elders and children while reaching the top of the cave precincts.

Third cave is an ideal Neolithic mankind dwelling spot, it is accessible through a narrow modified door way. The cave is low level hardly 4 feet in height. It can be claustrophobic for some individuals, the ventilation is provided at the end of the cave. It is better to carry a torch or powerful light. There are lingam to be worshiped along with statue of Shiva.

A huge temple complex adjescent to the main temple complex is under renovation. This temple is quite huge and would be majestic to visit once the renovation is complete. A temple trust has 4 rooms for those who would like to experience Yaganti through the night. The next alternative for stay would be ideally at Kurnool. Gooty and Banagapalli has limited accommodation. Nandayal towards Prakasham district and Tadapatri are other alternative spots for stay.

Overall a visit to Yaganti is a refreshing religious and trekking experience, if one is adventurous one can visit the deserted Nawabs Palace enroute, Fort @ Banagapalli, Mosque within the complex and check out. If one needs further trekking check out the Gooty Fort and Kurnool Fort. Say Yes to Yaganti next time

MADHUGIRI FORT, A Gowda Legacy

The construction of the original mudfort was undertaken by Raja Hira Gowda in the 17th century around 1670 AD. An interesting incident prompted the Gowda family to considering building a fortress. A stray sheep went missing around the Madhugiri hillock only to return late in the night dripping with water. This was music to the ears since a spring would definitely be welcome sign for rain deficient area. A decision to construct a fortress was arrived and the task was completed. The Gowdas started ruling this region based at Madhugiri Fort.



Genesis of the name Madhugiri is derieved from the Honeybee colonies which were prevalent in those days towards the northern parts of the Madhugiri fortress. There are two large temples located in Madhugiri one is Venkatramana and other is Malleswara. There is also a Jaina temple on the precints of the Madhugiri fort.

In 1678 Gowdas annoyed the Wodeyars of Mysore, and thereby inviting their wrath of non submission of revenue collected being feudatories. The king and the queen were taken prisoners to Srirangapatanam. Once they agreed to dutifully remit the share of the taxes collected they were sent back with honour to occupy their throne in Madhugiri. The Marathas invaded the territory and captured Madhugiri Fort and held it for 7 years. After that Hyder Ali invaded this region and captured the Fort in 1764 and commissioned alteration of the mud fort. He built a huge arch type enterance, which can be seen clearly after the renovation. The entire fort was fortified and watch towers were built in all directions. Secret tunnels were constructed inorder to quickly escape from the enemy in case surprise attacks.

It is rumoured that Hyder Ali collected huge wealth from this Fortress treasury. He threw out all the antiques and collected only gold. Tipu in commemoration of the victory renamed the town Fatehbad. The tax collected amounted to 6 lakh pagodas in this region. The heavy and oppressive tax regime literally ruined the region and people started migrating and ultimately it lost its grandeur, when it was re-captured by Marathas in 1791. But it was re-captured with the help of the British, with bandits who had been exiled. They fought a guerilla warfare and repulsed the Marathas. The fortress and the territory was used to house the prisoners of 1857 sepoy mutiny against the british. Later the British handed over the territory to the wodeyars.

The town Madhugiri never recovered its lost grandeur after the plunder by Marathas and Tipu Sultan. It lost its glory, but the Fortress stands a mute witness to the original glory of the township.

The fort is currently under renovation, we hope the lost splendour of the Fort will be salvaged. Madhugiri fort can be reached from Sira, or from Devandurga, or from Leepakshi, Hindupur, Pavgada.


Madhugiri Fort is truly Gowda familys legacy and behold the local MLA happens to be from the Gowda family. So the saying goes history repeats itself
LOCATION : There are three routes to reach Madhugiri Fort. One is via dobbaspet or tumkur taking the korategere route and from thereon to Madhurgiri. Next is via Sira towards Madhugiri and last route is from Pavagada to towards Midigishi and Madhugiri. It can a ideal one day getaway from Bangalore covering Shivagange, Gornahalli, Devandurga and Madhugiri.

For photo uploads check this link : http://indiabackpacker.blogspot.com/search/label/Madhugiri%20fort

Amritapura an ancient hoysala temple

A typical Ekuta temple built in Hoysala style without Platform on all four sides. This temple was built by Amrutheswara Dandanayaka, commander of the king Veera Ballal II. Since the commander hailed from nearby town of Tarikere he wanted a monument to adorn his hometown. He had selected an idyllic spot near the river Bhadra, but safely away from it fury and flooding. The entire landscape looks like a garden neatly carpeted with grass and surrounded by coconut and arecanut trees.



The grandeur of the temple is multiplied by its low compound wall and statues embedded on the wall. Various figures of god and godesses in oval shaped stones are sculpted and placed to enhance the beauty of the temple. This temple was in dire status two years ago, when I read a report in the newspaper, but now the looks of it gives us an impression it should be deemed as world class heritage like Hampi. The renovation with regard to plugging the leakages and crumbling edifice is an ongoing process.


On the façade of the temple various scenes from Ramayana, Lord Krishna’s life and Mahabharat are embedded in stone format. There are approx 70 panels of Ramayan on the south façade of the temple, 25 panels of Lord Krishna’s life on the Northern portion and 45 panels of Mahabharat on the Western side of the temple walls.



The interior of the temple is laid out with lathe finished pillars with the the ceiling decorated in floral and geometric designs largely. There are shiv lingas projecting out of the circular ceiling. In my opinion these architectural innovation gave the stability for the dome of the temple. Various deities are embedded on the walls of the temple inside the main mantap.





Ruvari Mallitamma was the chief architect, who started his working career by finishing the gopuram of the temple. The Hoysala symbol of sala slaying the tiger is embedded on the temple as a signature of the times in which it was built.



Due to heavy lashing rain I was carried away by the absolute stunner of the visual unfolding before my eyes. Another concern was the protection of the digital camera which can be spoilt by water seepage. Nevertheless I captured some video shots which is a consolation. The light conditions was absolutely murkier.


Location : Amritapura can be reached vide NH 206 approximately 250 kms from Blore. The nearest detour is from Tarikere towards Amritapura on the highway. We took an unusual route because we had to cover Hirenallur Mallikarjun swamy temple from Areleguppa, we touch Banavar, and than onwards we deviated close to Kadur to Hirenallur and from there to Ajjampur junction and than we proceeded towards Amritapura. The roads were treacherous. It can also be reached from Bhadravathi.

Uchangidurga Fortress

Uchangidurga during the Kadamba time was known as Uchchasringi. A great battle between a Pallava King named Nanakkdas and kadamba king Krishnavarma was fought in this very place according to 4th century inscription found at Anaji. The latter suffered a huge defeat at the hands of the Pallavas. He had to retreat to Banavasi as a consequence. Later Chalukyas reigned surpreme and bought this area under their control. They defeated Pallavas who had occupied the territory and chased them further south. In the middle of 12th century when Chlaukyas became weak and fading Pandyas took charge of this region. Tribhuvana Malla Pandya, Vijay Pandya Deva, Vira Pandya Deva, ruled over the region. Uchangidurga was the capital of the Pandyas, who claimed to be from Yadav race and their capital was Kanchipuram.

Hoysalas took charge of this territory by defeating the Pandyas in the 12th century. King Vishnuvardhana routed them in the battle and he took charge of the strategic Uchangidurga fort. After the fall of Hoysalas the Vijaynagar rulers took over and dominated the region and it was given to Nayaks to govern. Hanumappa Nayak was the first to govern, later followed by Timmana Nayak. Timmana Nayak was considered to be courageous and daring soldier. He once sneaked into the enemy camp and rode off with horse of the general. This earned him instant recognition by the Vijaynagar emperor. He was asked to lead the army against Gulbarga sultanate. He was successful in defeating the Bahmani sultans. Thereafter in recognition of his feat he was given to take charge of Uchangidurga. But he abducted a courtesan from the Vijaynagar empire and incurred the wrath of the emperor. He escaped to Miyakonda and than to the jungles of Guntanur. He was ultimately forced to surrender at Rangapatna. He was imprisoned at Chitradurga Fort for his treason.


His son Obana Nayak was installed to the throne at Chitradurga. After the fall of Vijaynagar Empire in 1565 he assumed the title of the famous Madakeri Nayak. He declared his independence and than constructed the famous fort at Chitradurga, Kallina kote. Thus Uchangidurga formed a pivot during the reign of the Nayaks. Many a battles were fought constantly.

This territory was sandwiched between the Marathas and Hyder Ali. Some of the Nayaks took protection under Marthas and soon this region was captured by Hyder Ali. Thereafter Tipu Sultan took over the territory till 1799 AD when he was defeated by the British in the anglo mysore war.




CURRENT SCENARIO :

Uchangidurga is now a crumbling edifice. Heavy rainfall and human encroachment have taken its toll on the the majestic fort, which is spread more than 5 kms from one end to the other. There is a concrete road leading almost upto midway to the Fort, from there the trek is nice and cosy. The entry portion of the fort walls seems to have literally vanished. Enroute one can find the soldiers quarters, where horse and elephants too were stationed. All these edifices have crumbled and peasants have taken over literally.

The trek to the fort is hardly 30 minutes. Some of the interesting points are Kings Palace, Queens Palace, Uchangi Devi Temple, Wells and Ponds, Staying place for tourists who seek adventure and some resting places.

One can have a wonderful view point from the temple premise. The entire landscape surrounding can be viewed. The ancient temple has been however painted atrociously without considering its heritage value. Pooja takes with the help of priests. There is a jatra during January.

We were guided by 3 exhuberant boys, they took us all the way explaining the relevance, one can find drawings or elephant and cow on the fort walls. The queens palace is opened only on Mondays, even Kings palace gates are open on Mondays. It is strange routine, there is a mufti clothed security with wireless set stationed at the fort.

There was very little information on the net with regard to such a magnificent Fortress. I got some clue from HOTFIX from Team BHP but that did not satisfy my curiousity, I started digging deep and found an official gazetteer published and from thereon I gathered a comprehensive information on the history of the Fortress.

Renovation to the fort is proposed by the state govt. to save the heritage. A mutt is scheduled to come up inorder to protect the interest of the Piligrims. May a rest house is in the offing. Otherwise accommodation is available in plenty in Davangere.

LOCATION :

30 Kms from Davangere on the Annaji route and take a left turn the fort is visible from the junction. There is a route from Alur deviation too, which is not recommended since the road condition is bad. The road proceeds toward Jaglur.